A late breakfast at the Hotel de la Paix and then we decided to check out a local wine store called Le Vintage (the parent of a Wine Bar that we had visited last night). I regretted visiting as soon as I walked in. Amazing selection and ridiculous prices. It was painful to walk out of there without any champagne or Burgundy or anything! Alas, the limit to get back into Oz is only 3 bottles and already, that quota is filled from the generosity of the houses in the first week.
Nicole recommended that we visit the Reims Basilica. A 25-minute walk saw us in another inspiring church, not as grand as the cathedral but potentially more impactful, with services bring conducted in many of the chapels. The significance of Reims is that Clovis, King of the Francs was baptised here. Ever since that event in 496, Reims has been the location for the coronations of almost all French Kings. The man who baptised Clovis, Remigius, is buried in the basilica.
By this time (mid-morning) I was having Champagne withdrawals so walked the short distance to Champagne Pommery. Walking in the gates, you’re greeted by bright blue – the house colour (much like my dear old Bradman at Greenwich Public School) – and a huge castle that made me feel like I was about to go on Splash Mountain.
The brief experience at Pommery just reinforced how spoiled I have been this week. The tour (if I had chosen to go) was dear, the wine (of what I tasted) was disappointing and the pale blue light that bathed the Pommery tasting salon is reminiscent of a CityRail bathroom in Sydney. I’ll admit, I’m probably being a little harsh as their prestige cuvée, Louise 1999 looked pretty good, and I’m sure the tour was good value and informative. What I’m trying to say is that I’ve been incredibly spoiled the last week, and that I know it!!
Wandering back to the hotel we picked up a quick boulangerielunch. However, it wasn’t enough to stop Annette and I making an impromptu decision to visit one of Reims top restaurants, Le Parcat Les Crayères. Our “Notes Automnales” menu was 8 courses of absolute deliciousness and besides 2 very good Burgundies, the standouts were the foie gras and surprisingly, the pre-dessert, a butternut pumpkin sorbet.
The sitting room, for aperitifs and digestives, feels like a London club room with tartan carpet and armchairs. I had a glass of Pol Roger (I’m converted) and we looked over the menus. There was a Champagne degustation which looked amazing and we’d have ordered it had we not had many of the wines this week. Hilariously, my menu had prices and Annette’s did not. So chivalrous!
The dining room, by comparison is very French, ornate chandeliers, amazing waiters and classic wine ceremony – decanting into huge round flasks and assessing the wines by candlelight.
Some may think that the dinner was indulgent, particularly those following along on Instagram but besides the 5-hours of wine and food (which is why we’re here):
- I learnt the real use for what I had previously thought was a foie spoon (it’s a sauce spoon for when the meal is on a flat plate); plus,
- I got to smell a 500g White Truffle from Alba.
Totally worth it.
The (almost) complete meal is below. It is missing the appetisers from the sitting room and a good one of the foie.
Bon appétit!
warrellwine 